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MBFWA

Akira Resort ’18 Review

By May 21, 2017 Style

Words by Matt Huxley

A perpetual embodiment of the androgynous, oriental aesthetic, the Akira show is always one of brilliant craftsmanship, inspired ideas and unique silhouettes. Think longline layers, loose fits, and a largely white colour palette.

Highlights of this collection included a turquoise coat/pant set with a white and beige granddad collar shirt. It was cinched at the waist with the accessory of the season – a primal red karate belt, the new obi. A few extreme long line shirts skimmed the ankle and were offered up as shirts or coats. A pure white boiler suit was layered over a beige granddad collar shirt and a candy pink cocoon coat made a statement over red layers.

The Akira signature floral was back, this time in an abstract Magnolia print supersized onto shirts and shorts. Another warm-toned abstract print was made into a kimono, referencing Akira’s Japanese heritage.

Box-cut shirts and extreme wide pants rounded out a solid collection from Akira. Was this his strongest collection? Probably not. But did it push the boundaries of androgynous and unisex fashion that little bit further? Definitely. I already have my eye on what I want!

Photos provided by Getty Images exclusively for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia.

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Vmajor Resort ’18 Review

By May 20, 2017 Style

Words by Matt Huxley

As the international show for MBFWA, Vmajor had a lot of expectations to meet, and they didn’t disappoint.

Bringing back the sexy 70s in a retro-modern way that I certainly didn’t see coming. Think fringing added to skirt and top edges and sides. Retro plastic earrings, billowing silk dresses with large buckle chokers, and drop-shoulder raw-edge cotton. This is sport-luxe elevated out of the doldrums it has been in the past few seasons.

Strong looks included a longline chiffon 3/4 sleeve top with palazzo pants, a few nods to modernity with the addition of extended french cuffs to a few looks, and a severely distressed striped two piece (worn on the beautiful Alanda from White and Capsule on the day).

Elongated scarf-like sleeves on several of the garments was a great update on the extended cuff trend and provided a necessary point of difference from the other brands showing. Another clever move was the use of pleats in some of the outfits. Instead of presenting them in your basic ass skirt, pleats were used as stylistic and practical way along the front or sides of the garment. They added a textural, eye-catching element, plus allowed the garment to expand as necessary. Now if only they could do that for menswear… perfect buffet-visiting shirt? I think so!

Photos provided by Getty Images exclusively for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia.

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The Innovators Resort ’18 Review

By May 20, 2017 Style

Words by Matt Huxley

The Innovators is a show that highlights the most astounding and avant-garde fashion that Australia has to offer. Last year, this was my absolute favourite show, and it wowed me completely.

This year, it still had a high calibre of designers, but it was significantly tamer.

A.N.X

A.N.X presented an oversized oriental inspired show that served to wow the crowd right off the bat. There were some definite standouts; a swallowtail collar shirt with extended french cuffs was a great layering piece. A fringed corset gave a new take on the corset belt trend, paired with a handkerchief hem front shirt it perfectly summed up the androgyny of fashion.

 

Yohana

Featuring hand painted Aboriginal patterns, Yohana gave us a well conceptualised collection.  A johnny collar cotters with a contrasting neck scarf was a buyers piece. Cocoon wrap dresses served to accentuate the female form with plunging necklines.

Richard Giang

Can we just firstly discuss how Richard is the cutest thing ever? I mean unf. Anyway. He presented a successful vampy line of white, black and burgundy. Tulle overlays, long duster coats, interesting use of leather and infinitely wearable layering pieces were the backbone of this collection. The frontbone (so to speak) was the faux crocodile skins (complete with legs) that were worn as bustiers. Too much? Potentially. Statement? Yes.

Ewol

If you ever wanted to combine an acid trip with snorkelling on the barrier reef, look no further than Ewol. The collection was a celebration of colourful childhood innocence, exemplified by the vajazzled dummies adorning several of the model’s mouths. The frilled leg warmers were a fun twist.

Handsy Swimwear

I must admit, I’ve never really thought about getting handsy with a model in swimwear. Oh how times can change. Really structured bathers, held together with laced up eyelets, was quite an interesting and stylish take on your regular swimmers. Laser cut midriff panels resembled the lattice of a cicada wing. All in all a very solid collection.

Akle

A unique take on the sleepwear trend, Akle took oversized waffle knits and spliced them with tartan and lashings of tulle. Silken coats and pants gave a wearable perspective.

Casea

Probably the most strongly curated of the Innovators collection, Casea utilised pan-asian influencers in order to present an orientalised collection that was both reverential and wearable. Chinese silks were paired with indian panel skirts. Western keyhole halters were there and so were Japanese obi belts. Denim patchwork reminiscent of the American south and Chinese Qin dynasty-esque headdresses. Russian tiered skirts with ruffled edges. It was a conflagration of colour and texture that just worked. Brilliant.

Photos provided by Getty Images exclusively for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia.

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Yousef Akbar Resort ’18 Review

By May 18, 2017 Style

Words by Matt Huxley

It’s official. Sequins are back. Back in a big way.

The Yousef Akbar woman takes reference from the hedonistic Studio 54, 70s glitter punk and 80s prom queens.

There were moments of brilliance. A skin tight pair of dusty pink sequinned pants, a matching turtleneck layered with an emerald green slip. An all in one khaki look including face covering (very Grace Jones) with Ostrich tufts was a pleasant avant-garde interlude. A studded biker jacket with a back slit and gold riveting is a phenomenal buyer piece – it’ll fly off the shelves.

The use of small wooden planks to hold dress slits together and as shoulder detailing was phenomenal. It added the perfect craftsman touch to the outfits, a bit of roman centurion, which is always great.

Not every look hit the mark for me personally, but overall the show was a success.

Photos provided by Getty Images exclusively for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia.

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Zambesi Resort ’18 Review

By May 18, 2017 Uncategorized

Words by Matt Huxley

As the proud owner of approximately 20 highlighters, I am absolutely a fan of anyone highlighted af. Zambesi’s models were absolutely highlighted to the gods. What’s even better is that the clothes EXACTLY matched the shade of highlight on the cheeks.

I mean. Brilliance.

The clothes were phenomenal too. Sheer metallic overlay coats came in blazer, coat and bomber jacket form, some with rose motifs emblazoned on them. Layered over tight pants and Clarks-esque school shoes, the entire effect was one of a rebellious school boy. That may sound shit, but trust me, this is a school you’ll want to go back to.

Marigold, moss green and pistachio are the new it colours, breathing life into revere-collar shirts, jumpers and carryall bags. Paired with cropped high waist loose trousers, they took relaxed to a high fashion level. Socks were layered over the physical shoes, matching the high athletic socks present on most of the models. This had the added benefit of softening the clip clopping of the shoes on the runway – sometimes intrusive at other shows.

Metallics came into play in another big way with the addition of pleated tops and skirts, cinched with matching jackets. An off the shoulder asymmetric cropped jumper over a pleated skirt was another highlight. Side stripe hotelier pants were paired with a gold vest for the men. Understated, yet a statement. This is the type of clothing that I expect from an international brand at fashion week.

Photos provided by Getty Images exclusively for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia.

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Steven Khalil Resort ’18 Review

By May 15, 2017 Style

Words by Matt Huxley

Do you remember that scene in The Devil Wears Prada where Miranda Priestley is at James Holt’s atelier and purses her lips at the catastrophic dress that he had designed specifically for her? Well it unfortunately happened today at Steven Khalil for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia.

That probably makes it sound like the collection as a whole was bad. It really wasn’t. There were some truly standout pieces. A burgundy 50s silhouette dress was well structured, a cream dress had an elizabethan twist with a high ruffle neck, a boat-neck silver dress had exquisite shoulder ruffling reminiscent of an elegant cornice, and a peppermint tulle gown would’ve been loved by Frances Hodgson Burnett in all of her secret garden glory.

My ultimate fave was a thigh slit silver 90s style dress with a wrap sleeve. It clung to the stunningly curvy model with aplomb and was definitely my highlight of the night. Whilst it was clearly there as a buyers piece, it’s one that was successful and that I think will fly off shelves.

But. There was one catastrophe. A 50s style black and lemon creation with a gigantic cerise bow on the back. Unfortunately it was just irredeemable.

There were a few other misses; a drop waist wasn’t quite executed as well as hoped, one or two necklines were taken into J-Lo level of neckline plunge and a leotard with a lone strand of tulle went a tad too far into ice skater territory.

That being said, the entire quality of the collection was top notch. The fabrics were all of a beautiful quality and the cutting is always of the greatest precision. I’m a real fan of collections that have reference points, and this collection did have that, misdirected as some of them were.

Overall this wasn’t Khalil’s strongest showing, but it’s a showing that proves he’s trying to step out of his comfort zone, and that’s a step in the right direction.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All images provided by Getty Images exclusively for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia.

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MBFWA 16 Wrap Up: The Innovators

By May 28, 2016 Style

Words by Matt Huxley

I love The Innovators show. Showcasing that innovative edge that Australian fashion so desperately needs, the show proves to the world that Australia can do innovative couture. This year, for myself at least, it did not disappoint! In fact it was the cheeky highlight of the week – though not brighter than the one on my face I can assure you (#strobelife.)

Jessica Van

Jessica Van

Jessica Van2

Jessica Van1

Kickstarting the entire show, Jessica Van really set the bar high with a whimsical earth-toned collection. Voluminous sleeves, oversized mermaid trains, branch horns and layers of embellishment characterised this collection. A standout piece was the opening oversized cream gown with peach trimming and antlers. Another fave of mine was a muted brown fishtail gown with white rope work on the front and a tie dye pattern on the tail itself.

Frederick Jenkyn

Frederick Jenkyn2

Frederick Jenkyn1

Frederick Jenkyn

Sport Luxe was re-imagined by Frederick Jenkyn. The addition of fringing elements to bodices, skirts and dresses added a distinct element. Some oversized and cropped jumpers also caught my eye, as did a rather nice leather halter/box pleat skirt combo, treading that line between sexy and sultry perfectly. An oversized back fold sleeveless knit also ticked all the right boxes – and pleasing the minimalist bloggers in the audience!

Oxblood

Oxblood

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Presenting strong unisex pieces, Oxblood gave us edgy pieces and some cool layering ideas. Extra long hoodies provided the perfect foil to matchy-matchy pant and top combos. An Oxblood-emblazoned sports bib was styled over a graphic print tunic-style top and leather pants – to great acclaim. Sunglasses added the perfect “cool kid” tough to a highly consistent collection.

Mandem

Mandem

Mandem2

Mandem1

Ahhh I love Mandem. Sorry just lost in wistful lusting over half their collection. From emblazoned cropped sweaters, to army trench inspired coats (that buckle tho), to man-skorts (yes, this is a thing) to the layered silhouettes which y’all know I love so much, this was always going to be a collection that got me going.

Ahmad Taufik

Ahmad Taufik

Ahmad Taufik2

Ahmad Taufik1

An interesting collection, Ahmad Taufik’s designs brought to mind the railway workers of the 20s and 30s (weird, I know). With cropped straight leg pants, over the knee shorts, derby shoes, bowler hats, cropped jackets, unbuttoned grandpa collar shirts and cream wifebeaters, the collection was highly androgynous and effective. The quality and tailoring was undeniable.

Ipsen

Ipsen

Ipsen1

Ipsen2

Fringe is back! That’s what Ipsen was proclaiming loud and clear with the majority of this amazing collection. From the opening iconic look of a bias-cut stockinged dress from top of the head (quite literally) to the floor – strategically placed material “scribbles” covered the delicate parts, to a slit to there hot pink dress and a pair of day-glo yellow gloves, the collection was guaranteed to cause commotion. The fringe splicing, shoe-covering stockings and unusual shapes to some of the garments may have proved to be difficult to walk in for the models, but they gave something different to a rather minimalist-oriented fashion week. It was a win in my book.

Kakopieros

Kakopieros

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Kakopieros1

Fuck me dead. This was the standout of the entire week for me. This is couture at it’s finest. Kakopieros brought us dark, edgy, voluminous shapes, clinking spikes, mouth jewellery that was largely composed of safety pins and the odd mesh piece. Forming floor-length voluminous pieces out of a material that vaguely had the same thickness as carpet can’t have been easy, yet Kakopieros not only made it happen, they made it well. The closing look of a spiked, mesh and leather dress will be the highlight of the week.

Which was your favourite designer? Make sure you let me know down in the comments!

All photos were provided courtesy of image.net

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MBFWA 16 Wrap Up: Han

By May 25, 2016 Style

Words by Matt Huxley

Brisbane based label Han first showed last year to critical acclaim. Now he’s grown his brand from strength to strength, experimenting with new techniques, new fabrics and new clothing. The show ended up being one of my absolute highlights from the week.

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The urban scene was set in the cavernous Bay 25 where the show was held. A rough pine frame served as the corridor for the models to strut down. Fluorescent lighting and wet concrete transformed it into a 90s hip hop music video. Then the models poured out. Storming down the runway in flat white sneakers, their fierce looks and strong features captivated the audience and brought life to the clothing. A fantastic casting if ever I saw one.

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The androgynous edge to this collection had me absolutely salivating. Oversized cocoon double-breasted blazers in muted tones had winter layering written all over them. A long, distressed sweater with built in rips and ties, worn on a stunning African model, could easily be that perfect trans-seasonal piece. Yeezy who?

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On the more feminine side of the collection was one of my standout pieces. A beautiful raw cut denim two piece, with a shawled boat-neck and an asian style asymmetric skirt with a tie. An absolute stunner. It traversed the territory between edgy, high street and innovative perfectly.

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The occasional pop of bright red silk provided a welcome contrast to the heavy collection. The matching shirt/short combo brought pyjama styling to the fore, the shirt doubling as a waist tie for a few other garments.

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The tie features that were prominently involved with the collection conjured up images of restraints and added a definite asian aesthetic. The updated obi belt if you will.

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Another feature piece was an oversized leather bomber with tie detail at the wrist cuffs. Worn on a stunning blonde model, this piece was the perfect closer to a flawless show.

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Make sure you check out all that Han has to offer here.

All images provided courtesy of Getty Images.

Buy Sigma Brushes here.

Don’t forget you can get 10% off all ApoteKah products using the code MATTH10.

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MBFWA 16 Wrap Up: Zhivago

By May 17, 2016 Style

Words by Matt Huxley

In a sea of basic bitch minimalism, Zhivago stands out as a shining beacon of hope for inspired design and unique styles.

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‘Death becomes her’ was the latest offering from Russian designers Lara Kovacevich and Lydia Tsvetnenko and boy did it deliver.

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Offering new inspirations mixed with the classic Zhivago silhouettes and fabrics that we know and love, the religious discourse integrated into the designs made for a truly inspired show.

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Walking on sky-high crucifix heels, models hobbled down the runway in fitted satin coats, trimmed with lace in jewel tones. A flowing hooded jumpsuit that was the closing look was also a highlight.

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A diverse colour palette lended itself to the sequinned fabric that permeated the catwalk. Utilised in the typical Zhivago silhouette, the dresses were embellished with the thick cotton straps around the hips that we saw last year. Eveningwear elevated.

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The fishing wire wrapped around the model’s faces gave a high fashion edge, and a nod to the constricting notion of death. The powerful image of the models walking on crucifixes was in itself a masterpiece as well, although for one poor model, I think they may have been a touch too high.

All in all Zhivago managed to appeal to pre-existing fans, yet deliver an inspiring new collection that is both editorial and commercially friendly.

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All images were provided courtesy of Ali Gordon from Modesto Blog

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Streetwear x Tailoring: Model Citizen

By May 15, 2016 Style

Words by Matt Huxley

Model Citizen’s designer Eeshaal Niranjan should be very pleased with himself. Setting out to create a luxe streetwear-inspired collection that combines new age fabrics with old world tailoring is not an easy task.

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Previewing the collection the other day, I was wowed by the statement coats and the exquisite quality of the materials used. Being 100% made and manufactured in Australia, my fave piece was a bonded cape ,with zips for sleeve holes. SO. SO GOOD. Definitely the perfect piece to layer over skinny jeans and epic boots.

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“We’re incredibly excited to show at this years Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia, Australia’s premiere fashion platform. We are showcasing a series of 12 strong looks influenced from creative feedback from our American showrooms. A range of hero pieces focused on creating a modern streetwear system of dressing, influenced with a sartorial edge, designed to travel season to season” said Eeshaal.

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With impeccable minimalist styling and a dedication to quality, this yeas MBFWA show should be fantastic. Make sure to keep following me on all my social media channels to see the show! Visit Model Citizen here.

All pictures were provided courtesy of Model Citizen and GlowBored PR.

Buy Sigma Brushes here.

Don’t forget you can get 10% off all ApoteKah products using the code MATTH10.

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