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Fashion Review

Akira Resort ’18 Review

By May 21, 2017 Style

Words by Matt Huxley

A perpetual embodiment of the androgynous, oriental aesthetic, the Akira show is always one of brilliant craftsmanship, inspired ideas and unique silhouettes. Think longline layers, loose fits, and a largely white colour palette.

Highlights of this collection included a turquoise coat/pant set with a white and beige granddad collar shirt. It was cinched at the waist with the accessory of the season – a primal red karate belt, the new obi. A few extreme long line shirts skimmed the ankle and were offered up as shirts or coats. A pure white boiler suit was layered over a beige granddad collar shirt and a candy pink cocoon coat made a statement over red layers.

The Akira signature floral was back, this time in an abstract Magnolia print supersized onto shirts and shorts. Another warm-toned abstract print was made into a kimono, referencing Akira’s Japanese heritage.

Box-cut shirts and extreme wide pants rounded out a solid collection from Akira. Was this his strongest collection? Probably not. But did it push the boundaries of androgynous and unisex fashion that little bit further? Definitely. I already have my eye on what I want!

Photos provided by Getty Images exclusively for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia.

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Vmajor Resort ’18 Review

By May 20, 2017 Style

Words by Matt Huxley

As the international show for MBFWA, Vmajor had a lot of expectations to meet, and they didn’t disappoint.

Bringing back the sexy 70s in a retro-modern way that I certainly didn’t see coming. Think fringing added to skirt and top edges and sides. Retro plastic earrings, billowing silk dresses with large buckle chokers, and drop-shoulder raw-edge cotton. This is sport-luxe elevated out of the doldrums it has been in the past few seasons.

Strong looks included a longline chiffon 3/4 sleeve top with palazzo pants, a few nods to modernity with the addition of extended french cuffs to a few looks, and a severely distressed striped two piece (worn on the beautiful Alanda from White and Capsule on the day).

Elongated scarf-like sleeves on several of the garments was a great update on the extended cuff trend and provided a necessary point of difference from the other brands showing. Another clever move was the use of pleats in some of the outfits. Instead of presenting them in your basic ass skirt, pleats were used as stylistic and practical way along the front or sides of the garment. They added a textural, eye-catching element, plus allowed the garment to expand as necessary. Now if only they could do that for menswear… perfect buffet-visiting shirt? I think so!

Photos provided by Getty Images exclusively for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia.

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Zambesi Resort ’18 Review

By May 18, 2017 Uncategorized

Words by Matt Huxley

As the proud owner of approximately 20 highlighters, I am absolutely a fan of anyone highlighted af. Zambesi’s models were absolutely highlighted to the gods. What’s even better is that the clothes EXACTLY matched the shade of highlight on the cheeks.

I mean. Brilliance.

The clothes were phenomenal too. Sheer metallic overlay coats came in blazer, coat and bomber jacket form, some with rose motifs emblazoned on them. Layered over tight pants and Clarks-esque school shoes, the entire effect was one of a rebellious school boy. That may sound shit, but trust me, this is a school you’ll want to go back to.

Marigold, moss green and pistachio are the new it colours, breathing life into revere-collar shirts, jumpers and carryall bags. Paired with cropped high waist loose trousers, they took relaxed to a high fashion level. Socks were layered over the physical shoes, matching the high athletic socks present on most of the models. This had the added benefit of softening the clip clopping of the shoes on the runway – sometimes intrusive at other shows.

Metallics came into play in another big way with the addition of pleated tops and skirts, cinched with matching jackets. An off the shoulder asymmetric cropped jumper over a pleated skirt was another highlight. Side stripe hotelier pants were paired with a gold vest for the men. Understated, yet a statement. This is the type of clothing that I expect from an international brand at fashion week.

Photos provided by Getty Images exclusively for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia.

Of course you need to follow me on Instagram and Snapchat @infirmofpurpose, Youtube, Facebook, Twitter, Bloglovin and Lookbook.

 

 

 

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Zhivago Resort ’18 Review

By May 16, 2017 Style

Words by Matt Huxley

It’s really no secret that I have a deep, undying love for all things Zhivago. The edginess, the fact that the creations are inspired, and the fact that it’s all just so goddamn extra. It speaks to the inner drag queen in me. Somewhere inside of me, there’s a Latrice Royale just screaming to escape.

But I digress. Miami Nights was a resounding success for Zhivago.

What is immediately clear to me in particular is that the brand has matured. There’s still the same quintessential motifs; the power shoulder, the plunging neckline, the just-above-the-knee length and the structured, ribbed, elasticised hems. But it’s been elevated. Restraint has been shown and experimentation has occurred.

A gigantic highlight was the integration of sequins into the collection. Arrayed in a rose pattern, they were appliquéd over fishnet to create a unique and textural material for jumpsuits (a la Met Gala Bella Hadid) and gowns.

Another experiment that went oh so right for Zhivago was the puffy sleeve. Whilst this may conjure up Jerry Seinfeld-esq horror stories, this was done the right way. Guaranteed you will want to look like a pirate. Cut in velvet, they gave me all the saloon realness. Particularly paired over the sequinned pants. The hourglass figure created is a celebration of womanhood and the female form.

There were many hits in the show, including a hotelier inspired red and black number, a muted floral fluted hem dress with a slit back and the OTT Zhivago branded sunnies and ear cuffs. Snooki eat ya heart out.

What’s also clear is that the entire show was conceptualised and thought out. From the music, to the fact that the models’ lipstick matched the shoes and the toenails, every single detail was checked off.

All in all, I think it’s pretty evident that this show was a resounding success, so let’s take a gander at the best images (provided by Getty Images exclusively for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia duh).

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Steven Khalil Resort ’18 Review

By May 15, 2017 Style

Words by Matt Huxley

Do you remember that scene in The Devil Wears Prada where Miranda Priestley is at James Holt’s atelier and purses her lips at the catastrophic dress that he had designed specifically for her? Well it unfortunately happened today at Steven Khalil for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia.

That probably makes it sound like the collection as a whole was bad. It really wasn’t. There were some truly standout pieces. A burgundy 50s silhouette dress was well structured, a cream dress had an elizabethan twist with a high ruffle neck, a boat-neck silver dress had exquisite shoulder ruffling reminiscent of an elegant cornice, and a peppermint tulle gown would’ve been loved by Frances Hodgson Burnett in all of her secret garden glory.

My ultimate fave was a thigh slit silver 90s style dress with a wrap sleeve. It clung to the stunningly curvy model with aplomb and was definitely my highlight of the night. Whilst it was clearly there as a buyers piece, it’s one that was successful and that I think will fly off shelves.

But. There was one catastrophe. A 50s style black and lemon creation with a gigantic cerise bow on the back. Unfortunately it was just irredeemable.

There were a few other misses; a drop waist wasn’t quite executed as well as hoped, one or two necklines were taken into J-Lo level of neckline plunge and a leotard with a lone strand of tulle went a tad too far into ice skater territory.

That being said, the entire quality of the collection was top notch. The fabrics were all of a beautiful quality and the cutting is always of the greatest precision. I’m a real fan of collections that have reference points, and this collection did have that, misdirected as some of them were.

Overall this wasn’t Khalil’s strongest showing, but it’s a showing that proves he’s trying to step out of his comfort zone, and that’s a step in the right direction.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All images provided by Getty Images exclusively for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia.

Of course you need to follow me on Instagram and Snapchat @infirmofpurpose, Youtube, Facebook, Twitter, Bloglovin and Lookbook.

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MBFWA 16 Wrap Up: The Innovators

By May 28, 2016 Style

Words by Matt Huxley

I love The Innovators show. Showcasing that innovative edge that Australian fashion so desperately needs, the show proves to the world that Australia can do innovative couture. This year, for myself at least, it did not disappoint! In fact it was the cheeky highlight of the week – though not brighter than the one on my face I can assure you (#strobelife.)

Jessica Van

Jessica Van

Jessica Van2

Jessica Van1

Kickstarting the entire show, Jessica Van really set the bar high with a whimsical earth-toned collection. Voluminous sleeves, oversized mermaid trains, branch horns and layers of embellishment characterised this collection. A standout piece was the opening oversized cream gown with peach trimming and antlers. Another fave of mine was a muted brown fishtail gown with white rope work on the front and a tie dye pattern on the tail itself.

Frederick Jenkyn

Frederick Jenkyn2

Frederick Jenkyn1

Frederick Jenkyn

Sport Luxe was re-imagined by Frederick Jenkyn. The addition of fringing elements to bodices, skirts and dresses added a distinct element. Some oversized and cropped jumpers also caught my eye, as did a rather nice leather halter/box pleat skirt combo, treading that line between sexy and sultry perfectly. An oversized back fold sleeveless knit also ticked all the right boxes – and pleasing the minimalist bloggers in the audience!

Oxblood

Oxblood

oxblood1

oxblood2

Presenting strong unisex pieces, Oxblood gave us edgy pieces and some cool layering ideas. Extra long hoodies provided the perfect foil to matchy-matchy pant and top combos. An Oxblood-emblazoned sports bib was styled over a graphic print tunic-style top and leather pants – to great acclaim. Sunglasses added the perfect “cool kid” tough to a highly consistent collection.

Mandem

Mandem

Mandem2

Mandem1

Ahhh I love Mandem. Sorry just lost in wistful lusting over half their collection. From emblazoned cropped sweaters, to army trench inspired coats (that buckle tho), to man-skorts (yes, this is a thing) to the layered silhouettes which y’all know I love so much, this was always going to be a collection that got me going.

Ahmad Taufik

Ahmad Taufik

Ahmad Taufik2

Ahmad Taufik1

An interesting collection, Ahmad Taufik’s designs brought to mind the railway workers of the 20s and 30s (weird, I know). With cropped straight leg pants, over the knee shorts, derby shoes, bowler hats, cropped jackets, unbuttoned grandpa collar shirts and cream wifebeaters, the collection was highly androgynous and effective. The quality and tailoring was undeniable.

Ipsen

Ipsen

Ipsen1

Ipsen2

Fringe is back! That’s what Ipsen was proclaiming loud and clear with the majority of this amazing collection. From the opening iconic look of a bias-cut stockinged dress from top of the head (quite literally) to the floor – strategically placed material “scribbles” covered the delicate parts, to a slit to there hot pink dress and a pair of day-glo yellow gloves, the collection was guaranteed to cause commotion. The fringe splicing, shoe-covering stockings and unusual shapes to some of the garments may have proved to be difficult to walk in for the models, but they gave something different to a rather minimalist-oriented fashion week. It was a win in my book.

Kakopieros

Kakopieros

kakopieros2

Kakopieros1

Fuck me dead. This was the standout of the entire week for me. This is couture at it’s finest. Kakopieros brought us dark, edgy, voluminous shapes, clinking spikes, mouth jewellery that was largely composed of safety pins and the odd mesh piece. Forming floor-length voluminous pieces out of a material that vaguely had the same thickness as carpet can’t have been easy, yet Kakopieros not only made it happen, they made it well. The closing look of a spiked, mesh and leather dress will be the highlight of the week.

Which was your favourite designer? Make sure you let me know down in the comments!

All photos were provided courtesy of image.net

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